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favorite this post CHEAPEST MECHANIC, GREAT DEALS, FREE EXTRAS. (MOBILE) hide this posting unhide

CALLS ONLY Jae
612-998-4985

RAIN OR SHINE. YES I'M WORKING TODAY

MOBILE, CASH, OR CC ONLY.

IF I HAVE TO TRAVEL OUTSIDE OF THE 494/694 LOOP TRAVEL CHARGE WILL BE APPLIED, STARTING AT $15 GOING UP THE FURTHER OUT YOU ARE.


You buy the part I replace it. I can also help you locate the parts you may need.
I have 16 years experience, references by request, and will beat any
resonable Price. Trucks sometimes tend to be a little more depending on the repair.

Diagnosing for most issues, say 75% of problems on most vehicle: $0.00 as long as you come to me. If I need to come to you just for a diagnosis there will be a travelling fee that depends on the location of the vehicle compared to where I am at the time of the call, usually no more then $15. If I have to disassemble a part or parts that are difficult to remove to locate the issue there could be a charge. Before any diagnostics are done that would incur a fee we would first discuss the situation and why a part or parts would needs to be disassembled to find the issue before any fee incurring diagnostics are performed. In some, if not most cases, part or all of the fee charged for diagnostics in those situations may be put towards the cost of the repair so long as you choose to have the repair done by me and it's done the same day as the diagnosis. In some cases I could honor the diagnostics credit towards the repair for a different day so long as it isn't more then a few days from the diagnosis. If there is a charge for diagnosis and the work isn't done the same day, you will have to pay the fee for the diagnostics that day. If I agree to put all or part of the fee for the diagnosis towards the work on a different day, I will subtract said amount from the final bill if and when you return to have the work done. In many cases if I remove a part or parts to locate the issue, there's usually isn't a whole lot more work that needs to be done to repair whatever the issue may be. So that's why if you don't have the repair done at the same time and I reinstall any parts that where removed, the diagnostic fee may not be credited towards doing the work at another time.

Disc Brakes: $50.00 per axle Get front and back disk brakes for $80.00 Save $20.00 on both.

Drum brakes: $65.00 per axle. Usually just in the rear. Hey front disk and rear drum for $95.00 Save $20 on both

Calipers: $50.00 per axle. Front and back $80.00. Save $20.00

Rear brake cylinders: $80 per axle. Front calipers and rear break cylinders. $110.00. Save $20.00

Brakes special: includes pads, rotors and both calipers $80.00. Per axle. Save $20.00

Drum brake special, includes shoes, drum and both brake cylinders: $125.00. Save $20.00

Tie rod ends: $75.00-$110:00

Lower ball joint: $75.00-$130.00

Upper ball joint: $75.00-$110.00

Upper and lower Ball joints both sides: $275.00-$350.00

Drive shaft rear wheel drive: $100.00-$225.00

Drive shaft 4 wheel drive or AWD: From front differetial to transfer case $100.00-$140.00
From transfer case to rear differential $100.00-$160.00
From transmission to transfer case $60.00-$120.00

Half shafts axle front: $80.00-$150.00

Rear axle: $100.00-$180.00

Strut assembly: $80.00 for ready strut only. If you want to reuse and transfer the old spring to the new strut: $125.00-$150.00 Prices R per wheel. Do 3 and get one free.

Shock and spring are sperate: Just shock $50.00-$100.00 Just spring: $50.00-$100.00
Shock and spring: $50.00-$125.00 prices are per wheel. Get just front or just rear and save. Get all 4 and save even more.

Sway bar link: $15.00-$75.00 $25.00 for most per side.

Control arm: $80.00-$150.00

Hub assembly front: $80.00-$150.00
Hub assembly rear: $100.00-$180.00. Rear is more because the all brake hardware, emergency brake lines, and shoes have to be removed.

Wheel bearing: $100.00-$125.00 plus $40.00 to get the old one pressed out and the new one pressed in at a machine shop. Press fee basis depending on what they charge at the nearest machine so from where the car is located. I've gotten it done for add little as $25.00 and as much as $60.00 but on average it's $40.00

Intake Gasket: $250.00-$300.00. Replacing thermostat is recommended. Also in some cases the intake has to be removed to replace the valve cover gaskets. If that is the case with your vehicle I recommend you replace them. If getting intake gasket REPLACED I'll do the valve cover gasket for a fraction of the valve cover gasket only price. In most cases just an extra $30.00-$60.00.

Head Gasket: $300.00-$500.00. Other fees will apply, such as having the head or heads checked for warping or cracks at a machine shop. If there is warping the warped head will have to be shaved. The fee is normally $60 for the laser and pressure check, price includes a high pressure cleaning, and if it needs to be shaved it's normally another $60 and that is per head. So if you have a v6 or v8 you have 2 heads, if you have a 4 cylinder or a strait 6 is only one head. You will want a head gasket kit not just the head gaskets them selfs, a set of head bolts, and if it's an over head cam I would recommend you get a timing belt and tensioner. Though it isn't necessary. You don't have to get the heads checked and shaved ether but if you don't I don't guarantee the work cause a warped head will more the likely leak. Call for more details.

Starters, Alternators, And Radiators $100.00-$150.00. For most vehicles depending on location and complexity. Some alternator and starters are very hard to get to and in some cases many other parts need to be removed to access them in such case the price would exceed the average price range. Call with year, make, and model for exact price.

Water pump: $80.00-$150.00 if its on the serpentine belt $250-$400 if its on the timing belt. Closer to the $400.00 end if it's a duel overhead cam. Also if it is on the timing belt you sold l will want to replace the timing belt or chain as well as the tensioner as well as the idler wheel of your vehicle has one.

Blower motor: $40.00-$80.00 if its under the dash $100.00-$180.00 if its under the hood. If it is a under dash style on average it's $400.00-$500.00 because the entire dash, stearing column, and sometimes even the front seats have to be removed. For a exact price call with year, make, and model.

Fuel pump external style, mechanical pump: $75.00-$150.00

Fuel pump in tank style: $150.00-$250. If the vehicle is older then 2005 you would have to get the fuel tank straps. On older vehicles the straps are rusted, falling apart and sometimes can't be reused. If the straps are in good condition and are reusable you would just simply return the ones you bought. I just ask that you have them before I start the job so if we do end up needing them we don't have to try to locate them because not all tank straps are always in stock in which case we would have to wait 1-4 days for them.

I DO NOT REPLACE FUEL PUMPS ON ALL VEHICLES. ALSO THERE ARE A HANDFUL OF VEHICLES THAT HAVE A SPLIT FUEL TANK THAT REQUIRES BOTH THE FRONT AND REAR DRIVE SHAFTS AND THE EXHAUST TO BE REMOVED, AND ALSO HAVE 2 PUMPS. THERE REALLY ISN'T ANY WAY TO KNOW FOR SURE WHICH PUMP IS THE BAD ONE UNLESS IT IS COMPLETELY DEAD AND NOT JUST GOING OUT, SO BEFORE I START THE JOB WE MUST FIND BOTH PUMPS, YOU DON'T HAVE TO BUY THEM BOTH WE JUST NEED TO HAVE BOTH OF THEM LOCATED IN STOCK SOMEWHERE LOCALLY. ALSO IN SOME CASES THE PROBLEM ISN'T A FAILING PUMP, IT'S A BROKEN OR CRACKED PLASTIC CONNECTER THAT A HOSE CONNECTES TO CONNECTING ONE FUEL PUMP TO THE OTHER ONE FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE TANK. AND IT MAKES IT SEEM LIKE A FAILING FUEL PUMP. IT WILL SPUTTER AND ALMOST DIE WHILE DRIVING AS IF THE FUEL PUMP WAS SLOWLY DYING OR A BAD RELAY. IF A DAMAGED CONNECTER IS THE ISSUE THE LABOR IS STILL THE SAME BECAUSE IN ORDER TO PERMANENTLY REPAIR THE ISSUE, THE PUMP WITH THE DAMAGED PLASTIC CONNECTER HAS TO BE REPLACED ANYWAY. ON THESE I CHARGE $350.00-$450.00 DO TO THE AMOUNT OF TIME AND WORK THAT GOES INTO THE JOB.


If you need a transmission filter change and fluid exchange please read the entire transmission section directly below.

Transmission filter change and fluid exchange only. Most vehicles: $65.00-$80.00, on some vehicles the filter can not be replaced without taking the transmission outv and apart. Most of those vehicles are Honda's and Toyota's, and a few others. Most of those vehicles have a drain plug but not all the fluid comes out. So that would just be partial fluid exchange, witch if usually only a 3rd to half of the fluid and would cost: $20.00-$30.00 In that case we would also add a filter cleaning additive. Many vehicles have what is called a sealed transmission in which on some of them I can't service at all. Those would have to be brought to a garage with the appropriate machine. Other sealed transmissions can have the pan dropped to drain about 50-75% of the fluid, and replace the filter. Then to add new fluid there is a fill plug towards the top of the transmission that can be filled with a fluid pump. Filter change and fluid exchange on those vehicle would range from: $75.00-$105.00 depending on the location of the pan and whether or not anything else needs to be removed to drop the pan. Some vehicles have the sub frame, part of the muffler, or the driveshaft in the way as well as other things that can block the pan from being dropped. In most cases it can be done but can be very costly, especially if it the sub frame in the way because the whole thing has to be removed and is a lot of work. If it is a sealed transmission that has something major in the way of the tranny pan, I would let you know and it would be much cheaper to take it to a garage that has a machine that is specifically for flushing the fluid from sealed transmissions that have little to no access to the pan or can not be drained or filled without it.

The above transmission filter change and fluid exchange information applies to the Filter special + transmission filter change and fluid exchange listing, as well as the spark plug information stated below. Most vehicles will be the standard price for spark plugs and tranny filter and fluid exchange. Once you tell me the year, make, and model I will be able to give you an exact price.

Filter special. Includes Oil and filter change, Air filter, Fuel filter(does not include in-tank Fuel filter) Cabin filter, and Spark plugs and wire replacement.

FILTER SPECIAL SPARKE PLUG WIRE AND STEM NOTE: If your vehicle has spark plug wires rather then the direct coil on plug style, you must have the wires as well as the spark plugs, I will not replace the spark plugs without the wires being on hand. If your excisting wires look newer, are not cracked, dryed out and do not break during dissasembley, they may be able to be reused and the new ones can be returned. But if you don't have them I will not start the job. If you have the coil on plug style, it would be a good idea to get the coil stems. They can dry out, the spring in them can rust and corrode the contact. Bad stems can cause your vehicle to misfire. They are normally sold in sets of 4, 6, 8, or for some vehicles 10, or 12. Average cost per stem is $3.00-$10.00 depending on the vehicle. Domestic, and Asian makes are usually cheaper. European and performance vehicles tend to run a bit more. You don't have to get the stems but I do recommend it. If one or more of your coils is bad and needs to be replaced, there won't be an up charge though coils for most vehicles run $80.00-$200.00 each. AABCO Fridley auto parts in Fridley, mn sells them for 19.99 with lifetime warranty for most vehicles.

Filter special PRICE depends on engine:
4 cylinder $60.00, 6 cylinder $70, 8 cylinder $80. On 6 and 8 cylinder price is for standard Spark plug replacement.

PRICE FOR PLUGS AND WIRES ONLY: 4 cylinder $40, 6 cylinder $50, 8 cylinder $60. Fit most vehicles. Read below for exceptions.

On some 6 and 8 cylinder vehicles the rear spark plugs can be more difficult to get to them most. On some, the motor mounts have to come off and the motor has to be pulled forward. Price ranges $85.00-$185.00 price is for this style plugs and filter special. On others the only way to get to the rear and sometimes even the front and rear plugs is to remove the entire intake manifold. Price depends on make and model $150.00-$300.00 price is for plug replacement only for this style. If the intake manifold has to come off to access the spark plugs you should also replace the intake manifold gasket. You don't have to but if you choose not to and reuse the old gasket, the intake can leak and I will not be responsible for a leak if you choose not to replace the intake manifold gasket with a new one. In others like some BMW's, Audi's, and Volkswagen the windshield wiper assembly and plenum need to be removed. On those $80.00-$150.00. Price includes filter special. There are various other vehicals that have many different ways that you have to access to the spark plugs, whether it's hard to access one side or the other, the front or the back. Some you can only get to from underneath. Some you have to remove the wheels on each side to be able to get the right angle. Some you have to remove the motor mounts and jack the engine up. There are many different methods for various vehicles and would be priced by vehicle and method. But range between $70.00-$200.00 may or may not include filter special. There are also a hand full of vehicles where the only way to get to the rear plugs is to pull the engine or pull the frame off the engine, in those cases I would not be able to do it at any price.

Filter special + transmission filter change and fluid exchange: 4 cylinder: $110, 6 cylinder: $120, 8 cylinder: $130.00. Prices are for standard access Spark plugs. Basically whatever the filter special price is for your particular vehicle add $50.00 for transmission filter change and fluid exchange as long as your vehicle has standard excess to the transmission pan and/or transmission fluid plug and fill hole. On transmissions with abnormal procedures vary in price. Please refer to Transmission Filter Change And Fluid Exchange section above.

I also install car stereo decks, in dash screens, head rest screens, fold down TV DVD combo screens, subs, amps, back up cameras, car alarms, remote starters, and also hidden wiring for decks, subs, amps, cameras, in dash screens, head rest screens and fold down TV DVD combos. Most any electronic that you need installed in your car i can do as well as external lighting including custom LED fog lights and rewiring the wire harness fit LED or other custom head lights. Call for price on your specific job.

Because I don't have a hoist or transmission jack I DO NOT do engine replacements or most front or rear wheel drive transmissions in cars. THOUGH I CAN do some rear wheel drive, 4 Wheel drive, and All Wheel Drive (AWD) transmissions in trucks or SUV's only. Call for price.

TRANSFER CASES AND DIFFERENTIALS TRUCKS OR SUV'S ONLY:
I also replace transfer cases and front/rear differentials in trucks or SUV's only. Some time just the spider gears are bad in the differential, in that case replacing just the gears is much cheaper. The prices for a transfer case, a differential or just the spider gears, varies. So please call with your year, make, and model and I will give you a price. Though a Transfer case is on average $250.00-$400.00, rear differential on average: $250.00-$500, front differential on average: $300.00-$550, spider gears only on average: $100.00-$200.00. If you are not sure if the differential is 100% shot or you just need new gears, I can take a look inside for a fee, normally $25.00-$75.00 depending on the truck or SUV. I can also replace the whole rear end if you prefer, trucks and suv's only, call for price.


If you do not see what you need done listed, call and ill give you a price. My name is Jae. !!!!!!CALLS ONLY!!!!!!. Call ANYTIME day or night.
Jae 612-998-4985
WILL BEAT ANY REASONABLE QUOTE YOU GET PLUS THE PRICE I GIVE YOU IS NOT A QUOTE IT IS SET IN STONE.

THERE ARE SOME THINGS THAT CAN ALTER THE PRICE, SUCH AS BOLTS THAT ARE SO RUSTED AND THINNED OUT FROM AGE THAT THEY BREAK AND NEED TO BE DRILLED OUT AND THE HOLE TAPPED OUT INCLUDING EXHAUST PARTS. IF YOU GET THE WRONG PARTS AND ETHER IT TAKES A WHILE TO GET THE RIGHT ONE OR I HAVE TO COME BACK CAUSE THE CORRECT PART HAS TO BE ORDERED THERE COULD BE AN EXTRA FEE. IF THE VEHICLE IS NOT THE SAME YEAR OR HAS A DIFFERENT SUB MODEL THEN WHAT YOU TOLD ME THE JOB COULD BE DIFFERENT AND MAY COST MORE BUT MAY ALSO BE LESS. ALSO IF A PART CAN'T BE REMOVED OR REPLACED WITH TRADITIONAL METHODS DO TO RUST, AGE OR IF THE PART WAS REPLACED BEFORE AND WASN'T DONE RIGHT OR IF BOLTS WERE OVER TORQUED AND EXTREME MEASURES ARE NEEDED TO REMOVE THE PART OR BOLTS OR OTHER PARTS WHERE BROKEN FROM A PREVIOUS INSTALLATION THERE COULD BE AN ADDITIONAL FEE.
MOST ISSUES WOULD BE ADDRESSED BEFORE FURTHER WORK IS DONE TO COME UP WITH OPTIONS AND A SOLUTION. PARTS THAT ARE OLD AND ARE ON THE VERGE OF FAILURE CAN GET DAMAGED FROM REMOVING AN ADJACENT PART, IN MOST CASES I CAN USUALLY TELL IF THERE ABOUT TO GO, COULD GET DAMAGED, OR WILL FALL APART FROM REMOVING AN ADJACENT PART AND WILL LET YOU KNOW BEFORE I REMOVE ANYTHING AND WE CAN DISCUSS THE NEXT STEP TO TAKE. THOUGH IN SOME CASES IT'S NOT APPARENT THERE IS AN ISSUE TILL IT'S TO LATE IN SUCH CASE I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR PARTS THAT ARE ALREADY DAMAGED OR BAD. FOR EXAMPLE WHEN REMOVING A CONTROL ARM THE BALL JOINT HAS TO BE REMOVED AS WELL AND THERE IS NO WAY TO TELL WHAT THE ABSOLUTE CONDITION OF THE BALL JOINT IS UNTIL IT IS REMOVED. WHEN REPLACING A FRONT AXLE IN MOST CASES THE TIE RODE END, LOWER BALL JOINT, UPPER BALL JOINT IF ONE IS PRESENT, AND IN SOME CASES THE SWAY BAR LINK ALL HAVE TO BE UNATTACHED FROM THE KNUCKLE, ALL OF THOSE PARTS HAVE A BALL IN CUP TYPE JOINT AND THE JOINTS CAN BE VERY LOSS OR JUST PLAIN SHOT AND MAY NEED REPLACING. ALSO IF THE SWAY BAR LINK HAS TO BE REMOVED IT CAN BE SO RUSTED FROM AGE OR BRING AN ORIGINAL PART, THAT THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT OFF IS TO CUT THE BOLT OR IN SOME CASES THE JOINT HAS TO BE PULLED APART IN ORDER TO GET A VISE GRIPS IN THE BACK IN ORDER TO GET THE NUT OFF IN WICH CASE WOULD HAVE TO BE REPLACED. ANOTHER EXAMPLE IS WHEN REMOVING AN ALUMINIUM INTAKE MANIFOLD IF IT IS ON A VERY OLD VEHICLE IT CAN SOMETIMES CRACK OR BECOME DAMAGED AND MAY NEED TO BE REPLACED.

THE BOTTOM LINE IS I WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR BOLTS THAT BRAKE DO TO ECCESIVE RUST AND/OR AGE, OR FOR PARTS THAT ARE ALREADY DAMAGED OR HAVE ALREADY GONE BAD AND FALL APART WHILE REMOVING THE PART THAT I AM REPLACING. LIKE I SAID IN MOST CASES I CAN TELL IF SOMETHING IS GOING TO BREAK OR FALL APART BEFORE I REMOVE WHAT IT IS I'M REPLACING BUT NOT ALWAYS. I DO USE PB BLASTER (RUST SOLVENT) AND HEAT WHEN REMOVING RUSTY BOLTS AND THIN BOLTS THAT ARE STUCK BUT SOMETIMES THE RUST HAS EATEN TO MUCH OF THE BOLT AND SOMETIMES BOLTS, ESPECIALLY REAL THIN ONES GET WARPED OR STUCK AND BREAKS. LIKE I SAID I USE CAUTION, HEAT, SOLVENTS AND PATIENTS IN REMOVING ALL RUSTED AND STUBBORN NUTS AND BOLTS SO IF ONE BRAKES I WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE TIME OR COST IN REPAIRING IT.

DON'T PAY LESS AND SACRIFICE QUALITY. YOU GET BOTH VALUE AND QUALITY WHEN YOU CHOOSE TO GO WITH ME.

Bonus services include Spark plugs and wires, Oil/filter change, and Air filter replacment,
if you spend $200 or more on repairs. If you spent $350 or more I will include Tire rotation,
and coolent flush. If you spend $500 or more I will include Tranny fluid/filter and Fuel filter. If you spend
$1000 or more I will include front or back brake pads and rotors. You must buy all the parts and I
will do the above mentioned services for free. Spark plugs and Fuel filter must be easy access(no in tank filters),
Brakes are rotor kind only no drums, and I dont have a tranny service machine so not all the fluid
can be changed but more then half will be and a new filter will help out alot. The $200 level is $50 or more in a shop.
The $350 level is $80 or more in a shop. The $500 level is $200 or more in a shop. Amd the $1000 level is
anyware from $450 to $600 or more depending on the kind of car you own becuase of the free brake service.
NO ONE ELSE includes this kind of promotion. If you cant afford the parts to do these services I can give
you a discount on a future service or I can also discount a second service that you want at the same time.
For example, If you want a front and back brake job with rotors Thats plus you need calipers on the
front that would be $200 then you also need a starter put in and it a little more complex then most cars so
thats $125 I would give you a $30 discount. I know it's not worth as much as the savings you would get
on the services for the $200 level but its still good and cheaper and better then anyone else. No rain checks
on bonus services ether, they must be done the same day.

Key Words: , auto repair , car, broken, , Acura, Audi, BMW, Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Chevy, Chrysler,
Dodge, Eagle, Ford, General Motors, GM, GMC, Honda, Hyundai, Infiniti, Isuzu, Kia, Lexus, Lincoln, Mazda,
Mercedes-Benz, Mercury, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Regal, Saturn, Subaru, Suzuki, Toyota,
Volkswagen, Volvo, Mechanical, Brakes, Tie Rod, Ball Joint, Idler arm, Pit-man arm, Axle,
CV shaft, U-joints, Wheel Bearing, Exhaust, Muffler, Catalytic Converter, Oxygen Sensor, Tune-up, Timing Belt,
Head Gaskets, Preventative Maintenance, Air Conditioning, A/C Compressor, Engine, Transmission, Transfer Case,
Water Pump, Fuel Pump, Power Steering Pump, Radiator, Condenser, Electrical, Shocks, Struts, Check Engine light,
ABS warning light, Air Bag Warning light.
  • do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offers

post id: 6892657811

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